海拔3500米的湖面终年云雾缭绕，阳光穿透云层时，湖水瞬间迸发出蓝宝石般的幻彩，仿佛上帝打翻了一瓶孔雀石颜料。湖畔的冷杉林间，藏匿着数百年树龄的杜鹃古树，每年5月，粉紫相间的花海与雪山倒影交织，连资深摄影师都会因这“双重镜像”的奇观而屏息凝神。

The first such neuroscientist was Giulio Tononi, an associate of Koch’s, who told me my consciousness was “so much greater” than the alpine mountain I lived under at the time, Washington’s ...