I appreciate the smash burger. I really do. But since this is a category for appetites, to quote Will.I.Am’s memorable Moto Moto in “Madagascar:” I like ’em big. I like ’em chunky.

The company entered Orlando in 2005 and shuttered Whataburger restaurants in 2009 on University Boulevard in Winter Park, Commodity Circle in southwest Orlando, East Colonial near Bithlo and ...