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最吊诡的是，在号称 “最正宗”的日本本土，传统料理正以每年3%的速度消亡，而海外日本料理市场规模却以12%的复合增长率膨胀。这种本土空心化与全球神化的分裂，背后指向一个问题：究竟是谁，把日本料理捧上神坛。