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This story appears in the February 2019 issue of National Geographic magazine. Ketchup—that cheerful red sauce sold in handy glass bottles—first came on the American market in the 19th century.

First things first, ketchup may be a sauce but not all sauces are ketchups. Ketchup is cold and is never heated as a rule. Sauces, on the other hand, are used in cooking and generally served hot.